Kazakhstan Itinerary: 5-12 Days from Almaty to the Altai

Kazakhstan was nowhere near my radar, and now all of a sudden, I love it?!

Almaty is clean, easy and SO livable, with massive mountains sitting right on the edge of town. I blended right in, too. People kept stopping me on the street to ask for directions in Russian.

Then you leave the city and it’s singing sand dunes, red rock canyons, a lake with a sunken forest, and a corner of the country so wild I’m still processing it.

I spent a little over 2 weeks in Kazakhstan, including a few days of doing absolutely nothing in Almaty. Below is the 12-day Kazakhstan itinerary I’d tell a friend to take, plus shorter options if you don’t have that long.

Heads up: Garrett and I road-tripped this on our own dime. My East Kazakhstan trip was hosted by Visit East KZ and Altay Pro as part of TBEX, and my 17-day 4 Stans tour with Steppe Journeys kicked off in Almaty. As always, opinions are 100% my own.

My 12-Day Kazakhstan Route at a Glance

• Days 1 to 3: Almaty
• Days 4 to 5: Altyn-Emel National Park
• Day 6: Charyn Canyon, then on to Saty
• Day 7: Kaindy and Kolsai Lakes
• Day 8: Drive back to Almaty
• Days 9 to 12: Fly to East Kazakhstan

Only have a week? Do Almaty plus the road trip loop (days 1 to 8) and skip the east.

Only have a long weekend? Base yourself in Almaty and do Charyn Canyon and the Kolsai and Kaindy Lakes as day trips.

Days 1 to 3: Almaty

Almaty was hands down my favorite city of the entire trip. It’s got this chill, easy, livable vibe that just clicks. I spent 5 extra days here just hanging out, and I could have stayed a lot longer. Give it at least 3.

Wander the City

Start at the colorful wooden Ascension Cathedral in Panfilov Park. Go inside! Then make your way to the Green Bazaar. My favorite part was the dried fruit and nut stalls, piled high with every kind you can think of.

From there, stroll Arbat, the city’s main pedestrian street. One night I randomly caught a rapper performing on a stage right in the middle of it. Very cool.

And ride the metro at least once. It’s cheap, easy and basically impossible to get lost on. Almaly is the prettiest station, in my opinion.

Kok Tobe

Kok Tobe is the hill right above the city, with views over all of Almaty and the mountains behind it. I took the bus up and the cable car back down into town. Easy, cheap, and great for sunset.

Shymbulak

Head up into the mountains on the Shymbulak gondola for epic views. It’s a ski resort in winter and a hiking spot in summer, and it’s crazy that it’s this close to a major city.

Treat Yourself to a Spa Day

Arasan is Almaty’s big historic bathhouse, and it’s a total treat. I did a drainage massage and a facial massage, got wrapped up in a chocolate scrub, sat in the hydro jacuzzi and warmed up in the hammam. Perfect after a few days of walking.

Almaty After Dark

Grab a drink at the Ritz-Carlton rooftop for epic views over the city and mountains. Then head to 101 Dump Gallery, a quirky little art space with a bar serving handmade spirits. A local recommended it to me, and it was such a cool, weird place.

I walked home around 10pm a couple of times and felt totally safe. The main areas are well lit, there are lots of people out, and everyone minds their own business.

Days 4 to 8: The Road Trip Loop

This is where Kazakhstan really shows off. Garrett and I rented a car in Almaty and did this loop on our own, and it was one of my favorite stretches of the whole trip.

Days 4 and 5: Altyn-Emel National Park

Altyn-Emel is a huge desert park a few hours northeast of Almaty, and it’s unlike anything else on this route.

The Singing Dune: A giant sand dune that hums and groans when the sand slides. We called it the farting dune. LOL. The hike up the ridge is short but hot, windy and fully exposed. At the top, go down the steep side instead. It’s shaded in the afternoon, it’s way faster, and that’s where you’ll actually hear it “sing.”

The Aktau Mountains: Layers of red, orange and white rock that look painted on. You walk through a little canyon surrounded by them, and you’ll find sparkly crystal rocks all over the ground. Fair warning, there’s zero shade and it’s brutally hot. Cover up and bring way more water than you think you need.

If you have extra time, Katutau (an old volcano area) and a 700-year-old willow tree are on the way back. But if you’re short on time, Katutau is the one to skip.

Tip: Buy your park pass for all your days at once at the ranger station in Basshi village. They close for a long lunch break, so check the hours before you show up. And stock up on snacks and water before you get here. The little shops in Basshi are pricey and limited.

Day 6: Charyn Canyon

Charyn is a red rock canyon that feels like a mini Grand Canyon. Take the stairs behind the visitor center and hike down through the Valley of Castles to the river. It’s an easy, mostly flat walk of about a mile and a half, with towering red rock all around you.

At the river, there are picnic gazebos and toilets, plus a little open-air truck that drives you back up for 900 tenge (about $2). Hike down, ride back up. Trust me.

Tip: Get there early. The parking lot is small and fills up fast by lunchtime. If you’re coming from Altyn-Emel like we did, the road in is gravel and dirt, even though Google says it’s paved.

On the way to Saty, stop at the Black Canyon viewpoint for a quick stretch and a look down at the river.

Day 7: Kaindy and Kolsai Lakes

Kaindy Lake is the one with the sunken forest. Dead tree trunks stick straight up out of the turquoise water, and it’s so cool. The hike in is easy, partly on a metal walkway. Most people stop at the first viewpoints, so walk all the way to the far end of the lake if you want it to yourself.

Kolsai Lake is a bigger alpine lake ringed by pine-covered mountains. You park up top and walk down a road and a wooden boardwalk to the water. Stick to the right side if you want to hike further, and remember you have to walk back up!

Tip: Keep your receipt when you pay at the first lake. The same ticket gets you into the other one. Lose it and you’ll pay twice.

Day 8: Back to Almaty

It’s a long drive back. Take it easy, because the speed limit changes constantly (50, then 70, then 90, then 70 again, all within a couple of kilometers) and the speed cameras are everywhere.

Days 9 to 12: East Kazakhstan

Now for something completely different. East Kazakhstan is up in the Altai Mountains near the Russian and Chinese borders, and it’s a short domestic flight from Almaty to Oskemen (Ust-Kamenogorsk). From there, it’s long drives on rough roads to get anywhere. But wow, is it worth it.

This was hands down the most bizarre, off-grid part of my whole trip. A few highlights:

• A traditional Russian banya: Steam, a leaf whipping from a local (it’s a thing, and it’s amazing), then a plunge in an icy river. Repeat three times. I sat outside afterward in this blissful in-between feeling, not hot or cold. Probably the best thing I did on the entire trip.
• A shaman fire ceremony: Drumming, a fire dancer, and tossing offerings into the flames while making a wish.
• Crossing a river in an old Soviet truck: All to reach a remote spot where you soak in a bath made from deer antler broth. Yes, really. That one deserves its own story, and I have a lot of feelings about it.
• The Bukhtarma ferry and Sibiny Lakes: Big open water, rocky shorelines, and a campfire on our last night.

Tip: East Kazakhstan is hard to DIY. The distances are huge, public transport is limited, and very little English is spoken.

This is one region where going with a local tour company makes a lot of sense. You can reach out to Visit East KZ for more info.

Getting Around Kazakhstan

Rent a car for the road trip. It gives you total freedom, and the main roads are good. A few things to know first:

• Get some ground clearance. You don’t need a 4×4, but parts of Altyn-Emel and the road into Saty are rough, bumpy dirt. Confirm with your rental company that your car can handle it.
• Check your spare tire. We saw someone with a flat in the desert, and we had to top up our own tires twice.
• Fill up when you can. Small gas stations near Basshi were closed when we left, so don’t count on the first one you see.
• Tolls are automatic. Cameras register your plate, and the rental company charges you later.

Not driving? Base yourself in Almaty and book day trips to Charyn and the lakes. For East Kazakhstan, fly to Oskemen and go with a local guide.

Quick Tips for Kazakhstan

• Visas: Americans can visit Kazakhstan visa-free for up to 30 days.
• Money: The currency is the tenge, and Kazakhstan is SUPER card-friendly. We took out a bunch of cash before leaving Almaty and ended up practically begging people to take it. Even tiny shops in the middle of nowhere preferred card.
• Download everything: Data gets spotty fast once you leave the city. Download offline maps before you go.
• Expect villages, not towns: Outside the cities, it’s mostly tiny villages with very little in between. Signage is minimal too. Even our hotels and a restaurant had no sign out front!
• Food: Outside Almaty, it’s very meat-heavy and simple. Dietary restrictions are tough to communicate in rural areas, so plan ahead.

Make Kazakhstan the Start of a Bigger Trip

Almaty is the perfect jumping-off point for the rest of Central Asia. My 4 Stans tour started right here, then crossed into Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. Here’s my full 17-day Central Asia itinerary if you want to keep going.

I’m Already Planning My Return

Twelve days barely scratched the surface. Kazakhstan is the ninth biggest country in the world, and I only saw the southeast corner and the far east. Next time? Astana, Turkistan, and the wild desert landscapes out west.

But if you want a first trip that mixes a seriously livable city with dunes, canyons, mountain lakes and a little bit of weird? This route is it.

Have you been to Kazakhstan, or is it on your list? Tell me in the comments!

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