Kinosaki—Japan’s Tattoo-Friendly Onsen Town

What if I told you there’s a tattoo-friendly onsen town in Japan where you could walk around in a robe and “onsen hop” all day?

Well, I’m not lying. This place actually exists!

If you’re looking for a place where you can soak your worries away and not fret about hiding your tattoos, Kinosaki is the onsen town for you!

I went here with my friend Robin, and it might have been the cutest town we visited on our Japan trip! Here’s everything you need to know before visiting.

Onsens in Kinosaki

Tattoos, which can often be an issue in many onsens around the country, are not at all an issue at any of the onsens in Kinosaki.

Here’s a rundown of all the onsens to get your soak in while visiting.

NOTE: You can’t take photos INSIDE the onsens as people are naked, so here are some pictures from the outside, and the rest will be up to your imagination!

1. Kounoyu Onsen

Kounoyu Onsen is perfect if you want a mix of indoor and outdoor bathing. Inside, you’ve got a nice tiled room, but step outside, and you’re greeted by a large pool surrounded by nature.

It’s a fantastic way to start your onsen adventure. Personally, I loved the serene outdoor vibe here, especially on a rainy day like we had.

2. Goshonoyu Onsen

Goshonoyu Onsen wins the beauty contest, hands down. It’s got a gorgeous HOT waterfall that cascades into the pool you’re soaking in!

There are powerful jets with bars to hold onto while the water gives you a mini massage. If you’re into pretty places (who isn’t?), this onsen is a must-visit.

3. Ichinoyu Onsen

Ichinoyu Onsen is another gem. Inside, there’s a big tiled bath, but the highlight is the outdoor cave bath.

Yep, you heard that right—a cave! Bathing in a cave is as cool as it sounds, trust me. This one was surely the most unique of them all.

4. Mandarayu Bath

Mandarayu Bath is more family-friendly. It’s one of the smallest onsens we visited, and there were kids and babies around, which made it a bit less relaxing.

The indoor bath is cozy, and outside, there are two one-person tubs. It wasn’t our favorite, but if you’ve got little ones, it’s a good spot.

5. Jizo-yu Onsen

Jizo-yu Onsen has a fully tiled indoor space with a small kids’ pool in the corner. It was pretty noisy because the sound travels easily between the men’s and women’s sections.

Again, it’s more family-friendly, so if you’re looking for a quiet soak, this might not be the one for you.

6. Yanagiyu Onsen

Lastly, Yanagiyu Onsen is the smallest of the bunch, featuring a cypress bath with wooden walls and windows.

It’s super comfy and perfect if you want a more intimate experience. The wooden ambiance gives it a nice, rustic feel.

PS: You’ll see most websites state there are seven onsens in Kinosaki, but there are only six since Satono Yu Onsen has been closed for a bit now.

Times and Cost of The Onsens

Each onsen costs around 700-800¥ or just buy the 1500¥ day pass and get into them all. You can buy the pass at any of the onsens—just show up!

The onsens are open from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m., but Yanagi-yu and Mandara-yu don’t open until 3 p.m.

It’s important to note that there’s one onsen that’s closed per day for their day off.

What to Wear While Getting Around Kinosaki’s Onsens

One of the coolest parts about Kinosaki is walking around in geta (wooden shoes) and yakuta (traditional robes). Everyone does it so you won’t feel out of place.

Just be sure to test out your geta shoes first—my big toe was spread so far from the rest of my toes I felt like a hobbling weirdo. But hey, it’s all part of the fun!

You’ll get your yakuta and geta at your accommodation. Most provide them for their guests so they can walk around town in their proper onsen gear.

The town is beautiful, with its peaceful river, weeping trees, and quaint bridges with the clip-clop sounds of geta on the streets.

TIP: You are definitely supposed to wear some thin, comfy clothes under your yakuta. I’m really glad I asked first since I almost went nude under there (omg). I wore PJ shorts and a tank top underneath (nobody sees it).

Sooo, How Do I Onsen Properly?

I wondered the same thing. I was so scared to do something wrong. Here’s the main gist so that you know what to expect from start to finish:

1. Place your shoes in the shoe lockers – they are at the entrance.
2. Walk into your gender’s locker room. (You’ll see a red or blue curtain to indicate)
3. Undress completely. No clothes or swimsuits are allowed in the onsen. Yes, you must be 100% naked.
4. Place all belongings in the provided free lockers and put the key bracelet around your wrist.
5. Head into the onsen room and sit in the tiny chair at a shower stall. You’ll shower yourself off with soap before entering the onsens water.
6. After thoroughly washing, you may enter the water and get soaking!
7. You’ll see many locals with a small towel as well; sometimes, they “store” the towel on top of their heads.

Other Things to Do in Kinosaki

Here are some more things to do around Kinosaki if you’re getting too pruney from all the onsen hopping and want something different!

Chill at a Footbath

There’s a free foot bath right on the street. Perfect for a quick soak while you’re wandering around. Just head here.

Public Onsen Fountain

This hot drinking water fountain is a bit of a mystery. It’s salty, but hey, when in Kinosaki, right? I’m not sure of it’s purpose to be honest but you’ll see it during your visit!

Kinosaki Onsen Motoyu

Here, you can enjoy a foot bath and even boil eggs using the hot spring water. How cool is that? (OK for real now, we are done with the onsens!)

Onsenji Temple

Halfway up the mountain, Onsenji Temple is a peaceful spot. The ropeway makes a stop here, or if it’s too windy out like when I was here, just hike up!

It’s home to a special Buddha that makes rare appearances.

Shishojinja Shrine

This shrine was beautiful at night and it was a perfect spot to really show off our beautiful yakutas!

Catch an Event

Believe it or not, we happened to be here exactly during the Onsen Festival, which I had no idea about.

We pigged out at the night market and saw a small parade for a monk who founded Kinosaki Onsen over 1,300 years ago. Check which events are happening in Kinosaki during your visit here.

Tips for Visiting Kinosaki

Here are some tips to make your Kinosaki trip smooth and enjoyable:

• Best Times to Visit: To avoid crowds, visit the onsens during odd hours when most people are out for dinner. This is what we did, and even on a festival weekend, no onsen felt too crowded.
• Onsens to Prioritize: If you’re short on time, prioritize Kounoyu, Goshonoyu, and Ichinoyu for the best indoor/outdoor experience, prettiest setting, and unique cave bath.
• Weather Considerations: Outdoor onsens are especially enjoyable in the rain, helping to balance the hot temperatures and adding to the overall experience. Don’t be upset if it’s raining; it makes no difference, as you’re getting wet anyway. It ended up being magical for us!
• Stay Hydrated: Vending machines outside most onsens offer drinks to keep you hydrated.
• Geta Tips: Make sure your geta shoes fit properly to avoid the “spread eagle” toe situation. It’s funny, but not the most comfortable, and I definitely got a blister. Oops.
• Yakuta Tips: Wear something under them, it doesn’t matter what, really, because you will take it right off at the onsen, but don’t ONLY wear your yakuta.

Where to Stay in Kinosaki

We stayed at Guesthouse Kinosaki Wakayo, a women’s-only Ryokan run by the sweetest woman. She welcomed us warmly and helped us dress in traditional yakuta robes and geta shoes.

The setup was adorable, and a little purse and towel were provided, too!

The room was a simple ryokan, which are tatami-matted rooms where you have to prepare your own bed. It’s a must-do experience when in Japan!

Final Thoughts on Kinosaki

And there you have it! Kinosaki is a fantastic place to unwind, not worry about tattoos in an onsen, and just soak the day away. This was such a beautiful town to visit with tons of charm.

I wanted to stay longer, but we only had time for two days, one night. Even if you’re short on time, if you can squeeze in a visit to Kinosaki, do it! It’s 2.5 hours from Kyoto by train.

I hope this helped you plan your visit to the tattoo-friendly onsen town of Kinosaki, Japan!

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